Starting off with a local favorite, Bad Branch Falls. Bad Branch Falls, with its beautiful trail and enchanting 60 ft. waterfall, is a Letcher County treasure. It is a must see for visitors wanting to explore our area. The hike to Bad Branch Falls is a little over a mile (one way) and takes close to 2.5 hours at a leisurely pace. The trail will take you through an old timber haul road that was built in the 30’s or 40’s.

This hike is a categorized as a moderate hike because it requires climbing over rocks and walking around small ledges. During the winter, there is usually ice along the trail which can also make hiking somewhat dangerous. Most people that can walk one mile should not have any trouble.

The scenery to the falls is breathtaking, including high sandstone cliffs, giant hemlock pines and many different types of rock formations. If you want something a little more challenging, there is an option to take the High Rock Loop Trail, a little over 2-mile hike to the crest of Pine Mountain. This trail joins in with the Pine Mountain State Scenic Trail - which will stretch over 110 miles when completed.

Follow along to learn more about the falls, Bad Branch Nature Preserve, and other trails in our area!

Nestled in the heart of coal country on Pine Mountain is an unexpected gem, the Bad Branch Falls State Nature Preserve and the High Rock Loop Trail. High Rock Loop is known as one of the best trails in Kentucky and offers even the most experienced hikers a challenging climb through the Bad Branch Preserve. This strenuous 7.5-mile hike has a lot of uphill elevation changes and is located nearly 2 miles north of Bad Branch Falls. Cutting through a grove of old-growth hemlocks, winding along streams, scrambling rocks to expansive views, and with an optional side hike for waterfall chasers, this trail offers a lot of wow for a day hike.

High Rock provides an unparalleled view of Whitesburg and the surrounding area. Here is a fantastic spot to look for migrating hawks swooping through the air in the fall. In addition, the nature preserve houses Kentucky’s only known nesting pair of common ravens (and numerous other species) so bring the binoculars for a chance to spot wildlife.

The hiking is rugged in this part of Kentucky—a few steep climbs, narrow ledges, lots of tree root steps, and some rock scrambling—but it’s worth it when summiting this interesting trail. With arguably the best views on Pine Mountain, there are also some pretty impressive drop offs to keep an eye on.

Starting off on the Bad Branch Trail from the parking area, hikers are treated to the accompaniment of the music of trickling water for the first section of trail as it follows a stream through mountain laurel and hemlocks along an old logging road. Soon the cadence of the 60-foot waterfall created by the pure waters of the Bad Branch river over a sandstone cliff can be heard. Take the spur from the main trail to visit the falls.

After sunning on the rocks beneath the waterfall, or perhaps even taking a quick shower in the falls, continue back up the trail to the High Rock Loop section. A rocky 2-mile steep scramble to the crest of Pine Mountain travels through a mountain pass known as the Ran Polly Gap. Reaching High Rock, a sandstone outcrop providing panoramic views of the Cumberland Plateau and Black Mountain, hikers are provided with an unparalleled vista of Whitesburg and the surrounding area.

Beyond High Rock, hikers plunge back into the dense forest. Along this section, people must be careful to watch for blazes and keep a close eye on the map, as well as the rooty and rocky ground as this is the least maintained part of the trail. Then the loop connects back with the Bad Branch for an easier trip back to the car.

Follow along to see maps of these areas, learn more about Bad Branch Nature Preserve, and other trails in our area!

Today we have some fun facts and a little history of Bad Branch State Nature Preserve! At the bottom, you'll also find a link to the most recent map of the preserve and it's hiking trails.

Bad Branch Falls State Nature Preserve is a forested gorge covering 2,829 acres in Letcher County. The deep and narrow gorge, adjacent to the Jefferson National Forest is carved into the face of Pine Mountain. Sandstone boulders and cliffs along with ridgeline and knobs provide views into the Appalachia area. The terrain is landscaped with streams, rivers, and a 60-foot waterfall. The preserve was acquired to protect habitat that supports more than thirty species of rare flora and fauna.

The Nature Conservatory (TNC) sold the original 435 acres of Bad Branch Gorge to the Kentucky State Nature Preserves (KSNPC) in 1985, and by making that agreement, TNC and KSNPC became co-owners of Bad Branch Falls State Nature Preserve. On September 26, 1985, the sold area, which included a 60-foot waterfall feature, was dedicated a nature preserve by the Office of Kentucky State Nature Preserves. Later in 1986, Bad Branch was considered part of the Kentucky State Wild River System. In 1900, 1,031 acres of land containing part of the upper watershed was purchased by TNC. The new 1,031 acres of land was bought by a $500,000 donation made possible by Mary and Barry Bingham Sr. Fund. An additional 820 acres were acquired by the KSNPC in 1997. Other surrounding lots of land, totaling to about 900 acres, have been designated and protected by landowner agreements or through the registry. Today, Bad Branch Falls is a 2,829-acre State Nature Preserve covering a section of the Presley House Branch watershed, a part of the northern face of Pine Mountain, and the upper region of the Bad Branch watershed.

Amounting to more than 30 different species, Bad Branch Falls State Nature Preserve is considered to protect one of the largest concentrations of rare species of flora and fauna in the state of Kentucky. The preserve is also home to two nesting common ravens (Corvus corax), which are the only known pair in the state of Kentucky. Upon visiting, the trails and foot bridges will take visitors through a hemlock-mixed mesophytic forest. Tulip poplar, sweet birch, yellow birch, basswood, buckeye and American beech also grow alongside the hemlock species. Beneath the upper canopy of trees are the umbrella magnolia, sweet pepperbush, flowering dogwood, and rosebay rhododendron. The Nature Conservatory and the Office of Kentucky Nature Preserves are working together with the Kentucky Natural Lands Trust, Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to protect the forest against the infestation of the non-native insect pest, hemlock wooly adelgid. The gorge creates the right conditions for a number of rare species that thrive in shaded, moist areas. Some of these species include the small enchanter's nightshade, Fraser's sedge, painted trillium, longtail shrew and the federally rare blackside dace. Many animals Including Black Bears and Cumberland Arrow Darte can also be spotted passing through the preserve.

Brochure/Map link: https://eec.ky.gov/.../Brochures/BadBranchbrochure_color.pdf

The Nature Conservatory article: https://www.nature.org/.../bad-branch-state-nature.../...

Nearly 15 years ago Letcher County native Shad Baker visited Damascus, VA to check out the Virginia Creeper Trail. A 34-mile former rail bed turned trail that begins as a downhill experience and then runs directly through two lovely downtown areas. He experienced a premier outdoor destination that people were flocking to from all over the world to explore the amazing scenery, bike, hike, run, fish, bird watch, and just relax. He could see the enjoyment of everyone around him and the positive impact it had on the community and thought to himself, why not Letcher County? We had old L&N railroad beds that laid in a perfect location to create a downhill trail from the Pine Mountain Trail atop beautiful Pine Mountain, down through Whitesburg and some of our many local destinations!

He returned home and pitched his idea to the County Extension Council and the Tourism Commission, and everyone was very receptive and eager to start planning. Council member Chris Caudill and Shad Baker walked the old rail beds and imagined what the trail would look like. Shad's mother, Pam, made the comment that all the tangled pipevine and grape vines and along the trail would make "Tanglewood Trail" a perfect name for the trail. Along the way, many public and private entities were brought into conversations or caught wind of the idea and wanted to help. With the combined efforts of Appalshop, the City of Whitesburg, Letcher County Tourism, HOMES INC., Cowan Community Center, and Faith Contracting, grants were awarded, money was raised, and a lot of hard work was done.

Today, The Tanglewood Trail is a growing 4.6 mile pedestrian and cyclist trail that transects through the City of Whitesburg, primarily along an abandoned railway bed. This trail connects important destinations within Whitesburg and has brought new life to some of our assets and history, such as opening a 114-year-old railroad tunnel originally opened by W.J. Oliver Construction Co. in 1910 for the L&N Railroad.

Tanglewood Trail development is not done yet! The trail was recently awarded more RTP funding to complete the East Whitesburg section that will take the current trail all the way up to the bottom of the Letcher Central High School hill. Development won't stop until the Tanglewood Trail is eventually connected to the world famous, Pine Mountain Trail.

Today we'd like to share some info on our beautiful trail of overlooks along the gorgeous Pine Mountain. With the help of many great individual's and establishment's generosity, Letcher County Tourism and HOMES, Inc were able to build six pristine overlooks to enable locals and visitors alike to relish in the exquisiteness that is Pine Mountain.

First you can stop by Combs Overlook in Jenkins, KY near the state line. Then follow 119 to Whitesburg, KY and head up the mountain to find Cliffside Overlook. From there you will find Hemlock, Hogg, Falcon, and the Sanders Andrew Collins (aka Shadow House) Overlooks!

This labor of love allows everyone to look out and enjoy a spectacular 60-mile view. We invite you to come be awed by mist-drenched trees, fog-covered valleys; watch spring advance up the north face of the mighty Pine or see the colors descend in the fall as rime ice comes as winter’s substitute. Now, finding them has never been easier, as you can now find them all through Google Maps locations!

If you'd like to book one of these overlooks for a special occasion, follow the link below or visit our website - discoverletcher.com

https://www.adventurecentral.com/.../web/m/wfResults.aspx...

Little Shepherd Driving Trail is a 38-mile journey through some of the most spectacular mountain countryside in the Appalachian Region. Located in scenic Southeastern Kentucky along the Pine Mountain Ridge, the Little Shepherd Trail is a curvy mountain road that twists and turns more than 350 times as it leads you through Kentenia State Forest to some of the most stunning views in Kentucky.

The windiest road in Kentucky is not for the faint of heart, but your heart will surely fall in love with this magical drive or ride, with most of this route being paved and some gravel near the end near 119. This trail route connects Coal Train 421 to the Slingshot 119 and has many great spots to visit along the way for all you off-road and adventure touring bike enthusiasts. Keep a lookout for wildlife lurking around the trail and take in the natural beauty surrounding you! Don’t forget to visit Kingdom Come State Park for one of the most spectacular views you can experience in Appalachia.

The ground was broken for the Little Shepherd Trail in 1963 and it wasn’t until the 1970’s that the 38-mile route was finished. Check back in on Friday to learn about the history of Little Shepherd Trail and how it came to be. It is very interesting!

Share your favorite photos and memories of Little Shepherd Driving Trail in the comments!

The Little Shepherd Trail is a small road that provides access to Kentenia State Forest, the oldest state-owned forest, acquired by the Kentucky Division of Forestry in 1919 as a gift from the Kentenia-Cantron Corporation. The Little Shepherd Trail serves as a fire break for the Kentenia State Forest located on the south side of Pine Mountain in seven scattered tracts totaling 4,277 acres. The largest of these tracts is accessible by the Little Shepherd Trail on the crest of Pine Mountain.

JACK’S GAP: Inspiration for the Trail

On August 14, 1914, Marguerite Butler, a worker at Pine Mountain Settlement School, wrote home to her mother about her adventures in establishing the new settlement school on the North Side of the long stretch of mountain called “Pine Mountain.” One of the favorite activities of the early staff at the school was to hike to the high ridge top to take in the view of the sea of mountains stretching across the counties of eastern Kentucky. Marguerite writes:

“About three o’clock Mr. Frost (the son of [the] Berea president who is going to Yale this year), Miss Watts and I took a six or seven mile hike up to Jack’s Gap where we had one of the loveliest views I have ever had. There were simply miles and miles of wooded mountains, one seeming to rise higher than the rest. It was a hard climb up the trail, but we rested about six times on the way. We watched the sunset from there and then made our way back to the road reaching it just as the moon came up over the mountains. The first house we passed the folks called us in and cut two big watermelons. I don’t think anything tasted better. It was a typical mountaineer’s house. We sat on the little front porch and watched the moon rise and just enjoyed that melon. A mile’s tramp along the road brought us home where they had saved the best supper for us – sweet potatoes, cottage cheese, hot biscuit, slice[d] tomato and cucumber, apple sauce and cider which was just made today.”

The view from Jack’s Gap above the settlement school is but one of many scenic vistas along the crest of the Pine Mountain. The rolling and steep escarpment of the north side is a struggle to ascend but seldom does the view disappoint. With the arrival of the automobile and more mobility in the population, the desire to share the spectacular views from the top of this unique mountain sparked a chain of events that led to the creation of what is today called the Little Shepherd Trail.

The Little Shepherd Trail had a modest beginning. William Hayes (Bill Hayes), a former student and farm manager at Pine Mountain Settlement School left the School in 1953 when small farms began to collapse throughout the country. He then turned his attention to his second career goal — to become a forest ranger. He was hired by the Kentucky Division of Forestry to head the Harlan County Fire Prevention program and to manage the oldest (1919) state-owned forest in Kentucky — Kentenia State Forest. He soon put the skills he learned at Pine Mountain to work in his new job at the Putney Forestry Station. His efforts resulted in a model program for conservation and preservation of the environment which included attention to scenic trails.

On December 23, 1958, William Hayes wrote a letter to Cam Smith, the County Judge for Harlan County, regarding road funding that was proposed for Harlan County. It was the beginning of a dialog that would result in the eventual construction and re-construction of a small road along the crest of Pine Mountain. This road was to later be named the Little Shepherd Trail, after John Fox Jr.’s popular novel, The Little Shepherd of Kingdom Come, that was set in the area.

In his plea for assistance in developing what was then a trail, Bill sent to Cam Smith a two-page justification for the use of county money to fund development of the road. He wrote “…I wish only to speak from my own personal observations of the rural roads which I feel could help the work situation as well as open up recreation areas and provide easy access to some of our timber boundaries…”

Bill believed the road, would facilitate monitoring and fighting seasonal forest fires, but would also serve the public with “…turnouts for picnic spots and the like ….” And, stretching his vision even further, he noted that “With very little work a rough trail could be graded out from 421 highway to Camp Blanton and on to Gross Knob Lookout Tower, along the top of Pine Mountain and off by way of the Gross Knob Truck Trail. This would make a nice Sunday afternoon drive for our people as well as tourists.”

Plans were then made for a “breaking ground” ceremony that would include Pine Mountain and a breakfast for all advocates at the Putney Ranger station in June 1961. When Wyatt turned the first shovel of dirt for the road that Bill had proposed in 1958, he was an enthusiastic supporter but with empty pockets. It was a road that would first be paid for, not by the Department of Transportation, but by the Kentucky Division of Forestry. Funding would still be insufficient many years later, but the departmental start-up still held promise for more robust funding and refinement of the proposed 38-mile-long rustic sky-line drive.

Joe Creason, the author of the June 25, 1961, Courier-Journal article, “Top O’ the Mountain,” noted that when Wyatt broke ground for the new “skyline drive” he spoke with some urgency that work get started right away. Under Bill’s direction, work on the road extension and improvement started immediately. The early Civilian Conservation Corps Road and fire breaks and logging trails, already on some six miles of the mountain’s crest, were widened to twelve feet. Ditches were dug and culverts were inserted along a six miles stretch. The cost of the remarkable local effort, paid through the Putney Forestry Station headed by Bill Hayes, and allocated by the Kentucky Division of Forestry, was just over $400, “a ridiculously low cost.” noted Creason.

The work was tough-going and began largely from Shell Gap west toward Highway #421. The existing 7 miles of road along this section had been created during WWII to access a large sand deposit on the ridge top. The roller-coaster ridgetop was not easy going. Work continued on what Joe Creason called a “shoestring” and soon some 17 miles were completed. Wilson Wyatt, ever the penniless but big idea man, believed that if the road could be built even in its crudest form, it would attract users and its growth would continue from this effort. It was a classic, “Build it and they will come,” scenario. Creason quotes Wyatt:

“…let’s create a road usable enough to attract automobile drivers and hikers and give them a taste of what a sky line drive could be….This can’t be a costly, production-type road; it can be only a rustic beginning of what someday will be a genuine sky line drive. For if enough people see the views along this trail, there will be clamor to get it improved until it becomes a real road …In other words, use will create a demand for the next logical steps in development — from dirt to gravel to pavement…The result is not a speedway. Instead, it is a rustic, slow-cadence, traffic-worthy trail that opens up perhaps the widest sweep of unspoiled mountain vistas in Kentucky.”

In 1968 at a meeting of the Little Shepherd Trail Association, including Bill Hayes, Wilson W. Wyatt, Burton Rogers, Charles Halcomb, James Butcher, Elmore Grim, Astor Holcomb, John Whisman and others were given the title of “Honorary Shepherds.”

Today the “skyline” drive does stretch the full 38 miles. Most of the original “Honorary Shepherds” are no longer with us, but the dreams live on in other shepherds of our environment. Today the forest is growing over the scars of mining and new vistas are opening up and the shepherds of Harlan and Letcher counties lift up their eyes to the long mountain that stretches through their land, and they continue to admire and dream.

Information for this spotlight was found in the Pine Mountain Settlement School archives.

Speaking of trails... Did you guys know that The Moonshine Trail has a stop in Letcher County? Our very own Kentucky Mist Distillery is stop number 5 of the 6 stops on the Moonshine Trail.

"Step into the world of hidden treasures and unbridled passion as the Moonshine Trail comes alive in 2023! This ain’t your typical touristy jaunt; it’s a celebration of Kentucky’s untamed spirit, a journey that promises to awaken your senses and ignite your love for craft spirits.

Imagine a trail that winds through the heart of the Bluegrass State, where small distillers with their unmatched expertise bring the age-old tradition of moonshining to life. Each stop along the trail is a chance to taste unaged spirits that carry the essence of Kentucky’s rugged history. It’s a symphony of flavors that dance on your taste buds, a true homage to the artistry of the past.

And what’s more, you’re not just a mere traveler here; you’re a part of the Moonshine Trail’s family. With your very own passport in hand, you embark on a quest to unlock the secrets of this fascinating world. Each stamp is a badge of honor, a testament to your adventurous spirit and dedication to embracing the authentic spirit of Kentucky.

As you journey from Lexington to Pikeville, you’ll witness the picturesque landscapes that make Kentucky a paradise for adventurers and nature lovers alike. The trail leads you through quaint towns, rolling hills, and meandering rivers, creating an unforgettable tapestry of experiences that stir the soul.

But it’s not just about the spirits; it’s about the people who breathe life into this trail. The tourism commissions across Kentucky have united in a thrilling collaboration to showcase their heritage and craft, inviting you to witness the passion and dedication of these distillers firsthand. You’ll meet the masterminds behind the barrels, hear their stories of tradition, rebellion, and innovation, and understand the heart and soul they pour into every drop.

And let’s not forget the bling! Along the way, you’ll discover unique mementos that commemorate your journey on the Moonshine Trail. These are tokens of remembrance, symbols of the friendships you’ve made, and the flavors that have tantalized your senses. They’re a treasure trove of memories that you’ll cherish for years to come.

So, whether you’re a seasoned whiskey connoisseur or just starting your spirit-loving journey, the Moonshine Trail welcomes all with open arms. It’s a tribute to the past, a celebration of the present, and an invitation to experience Kentucky’s vibrant spirit like never before.

Get ready to raise your glass and toast to the Moonshine Trail—a trail that weaves together the beauty of Kentucky’s landscapes, the warmth of its people, and the soul-stirring allure of unaged spirits. Come, join the adventure, and let the spirit of Kentucky carry you away on a journey you’ll savor for a lifetime. Cheers to the Moonshine Trail!"

Website: https://moonshinetrail.com/

The first old growth forest remnant protected in Kentucky (1969), Lilley Cornett Woods Appalachian Ecological Research Station, is a Registered National Natural Landmark by the U.S. Department of the Interior. The total area of the station is 659 acres with the "old growth" forest totaling 252 acres, a forest which has not undergone any manmade changes in 150 years. The oldest trees date to 1669 (white oak), and while never logged, it has been disturbed by livestock grazing the understory prior to 1969. The old growth protects an excellent example of a mixed mesophytic forest with over 530 plant species, 72 of them being woody plant species, 700 breeding pairs of birds present, in addition, a variety of small mammals, amphibians and reptiles call Lilley Cornett Woods home.

Due to the unique nature of LCW, it is an ideal location for ecological and environmental research. Currently, over sixty peer-reviewed publications have resulted from research at LCW, including climate change, Appalachian ecology, hydrological investigation, archeological assessments of rock shelters, and many others. One of the most important investigations has been the decadal forest composition research which has taken place over the past 50 years. In order to conduct research at LCW, a proposal must be submitted in writing prior to conducting the research.

Public access to Lilley Cornett Woods’ two designated trails is by guided tours only. Hikers may choose between the 2 hour guided tour and the 4 hour guided tour. Tours are not regularly scheduled, but are available during Visitor Center hours on a first come, first serve basis. Calling ahead to schedule a tour is recommended. For groups and classes, contact the manager in advanced to schedule a tour.

Follow their Facebook page to keep up with events and scheduled hikes they host!
Lilley Cornett Woods Appalachian Ecological Research Station

Lilley Cornett Woods
91 Lilley Cornett Branch
Hallie, Kentucky 41821
606-633-5828

Today we will explore the history of Lilley Cornett Woods. Last year Scott Honeycutt visited the preserve to conduct research for his story "Lilley Cornett Woods: The Hill Country's Legacy." In it, he perfectly describes the woods beauty, its uniqueness, and its legacy. You can read some of his research below and we will link the full story at the bottom!

"Lilley Cornett Woods is one of those special places in the East. The Cumberland Mountains are known for their sharp hills and dark “hollers” but in our contemporary sylvan imagination, and in historical fact, the Cumberlands have lost their legacy of ancient forests. During the past 150 years, nearly all of Southeast Kentucky has been logged or exploited by other extractive industries, such as coal and gas mining. Lilley Cornett Woods stands as an anomaly, a vestige from Kentucky’s deep past of long hunters and indigenous tribes.

Lilley Cornett Woods is owned by the Commonwealth of Kentucky but is managed by Eastern Kentucky University. The property spans 659 acres, 252 of which are regarded as a minimally disturbed old growth forest. Even though the woods have been designated as a registered National Natural Landmark by the U.S. Department Interior, it remains largely unknown outside the region. Perhaps this obscurity is due to its isolated setting, a fact that no doubt helped lead to its initial preservation.

Lilley Cornett was born in 1888 and grew up along Line Fork Creek, not far from the woods that would eventually bear his name. After his return from WW1, Cornett worked in local coal mines and saved his pay. He purchased land along Line Fork in the early 1920s. His initial property included rich bottom lands as well as steep ridges, both full of what at the time was called “virgin timber.” Because these woods remain largely intact today, it may be easy to conclude that Cornett preserved them due to some ecological foresight. Certainly, the woods meant a lot to this mountain farmer. Cornett, however, was known to be more of a shrewd businessperson than a poet. Some have speculated that the real reason Cornett did not log his trees was more practical; He never got his asking price. Over the decades, after the W.M. Ritter Lumber Company and American Column Lumber Company had logged much of the forest in Letcher County, Cornett’s woods became ever more valuable.

Harry M. Caudill (1922-1990), a noted author, attorney, and politician from Letcher County, gives an account of Cornett’s life in the first chapter of The Mountain, the Miner, and the Lord (1980). The book consists of character sketches and anecdotes from Southeast Kentucky. Throughout the chapter titled “A Visit to the Whitehouse,” Caudill renders Cornett’s spoken voice. When he writes from Cornett’s perspective, saying, “As long as I live, I aim to be able to look out and see them big trees agrowin',” readers get a sense of the mountaineer’s colorful personality.

Caudill tells how Cornett baited one of his rivals into thinking he wanted to cut his trees. According to Caudill, in 1954, Cornett hinted to a local speculator named Sam Collins that he was ready to lumber. “You’ve been a good friend to me and now I want to be a good friend to you,” Cornett told Collins. “I’ma thinking to sell my timber and I don’t know how to go about hit.…I’ll sell it to you at the right kind of price, and I’ll appreciate hita sight in this world if you will help me out so I won’t lose my shirt on the deal.” Collins was pleased with this idea and was taken in more by what Cornett offered next: “I’ma going to see that you come outta this in real good shape because of all the trouble and cost you put into it. I don’t need much money myself, but a man like you needs a whole lot and I aim fer you to git hit.” Thinking that Cornett’s timber would amount to a handsome payday, Collins hired a tree “cruiser” (a person who inventories tree species) to categorize and record all of the old timber. After two weeks of meticulously cataloging every commercially viable tree on Cornett’s property, the cruiser gave his formal inventory to Collins.

Since this would be one of the last big lumber transactions to be had in the county, Collins was ecstatic, and he could almost feel the money in his pocket. Yet, on the morning that the deal was to take place, wily ol’ Cornett baulked. After Cornett was handed the cruiser’s register, he looked Collins in the eye and said, “I’m a man of few words and I’ll make you one proposition— take hit or leave hit. My price is one million dollars cash before a single tree is cut.” Cornett understood his asking price was way out of range, but in stringing Collins along he had gotten what he had wanted: a free-of-cost, detailed species and board-feet analysis of his woods. Caudill goes onto narrate that Cornett also received several cases of beer out of the whole affair, beer which he sipped each day as the cruiser worked in his woods. Gobsmacked, and knowing that he had been played, Collins drove off down the twisting roads toward Whitesburg without a deal. He didn’t return.

With no agreement on the lumber sale, Cornett continued to live in the minimally disturbed forest. Over the years, his family cleared the bottomlands for corn production, and they let their hogs roam free in the upland hollows. While he never allowed the healthy hardwoods to be cut, he and his family did fell the blighted chestnuts, and so by mid-century his property had become an island of original forest surrounded by miles and miles of strip mines and clear cuts. After Cornett’s death in 1958, the patriarch’s four sons inherited the land and split ownership. At the urging of his widow, Polly, the family put their beloved woods on the market in the 1960s.

The aforementioned author, Harry Caudill, and his wife, Anne, would play a part in Kentucky’s acquisition of the property. Anne was an amateur horticulturist who, like her husband, was active in community stewardship and in the cultural preservation of Appalachia. In 1962, she attended a garden party in the town of Hazard, and one of the guest speakers was Charles Prather, superintendent of the Commonwealth. Days later, Anne wrote a letter to the forester. In it, she tells how she and Harry “hiked up into a marvelous stand of virgin white oak” near the Skyline post office. Sentences later, she would make a blunt appeal for the oldest trees in Letcher County: “Harry and I would like to see the tract bought by the federal government and preserved.” Without Anne’s correspondence, the fate of “Lilley’s Woods” could have been a lot more dubious. Though the federal government would not be involved in purchasing it, the letter did serve to put the forest on the state’s radar. A few years later, Lilley Cornett’s forest was sold for over $270,000.

With this sale, the coveted forest would avoid the axe one final time when the Commonwealth of Kentucky became its new owner in 1969. In an agreement between the family and state, the property deed stipulated that the land was to be permanently preserved “as a living museum, valuable for its virgin timber, botanical, biological, and zoological life.” The deed went on to say that Cornett’s descendants could live on the property for the remainder of their lives. A further layer of protection came when Kentucky River Coal Company and Virginia Iron, Coal, and Coke Company (VICCO) ceded their surface mining rights to the state in all property that bordered the newly named Lilley Cornett Woods.

With this sale, the coveted forest would avoid the axe one final time when the Commonwealth of Kentucky became its new owner in 1969. In an agreement between the family and state, the property deed stipulated that the land was to be permanently preserved “as a living museum, valuable for its virgin timber, botanical, biological, and zoological life.” The deed went on to say that Cornett’s descendants could live on the property for the remainder of their lives. A further layer of protection came when Kentucky River Coal Company and Virginia Iron, Coal, and Coke Company (VICCO) ceded their surface mining rights to the state in all property that bordered the newly named Lilley Cornett Woods.

Even though the land deal protected the trees in perpetuity, Lilley Cornett Woods faced a new challenge. After all, Kentucky’s Division of Forestry was and is in the business of logging forests, so the state was left in a quandary about what to do with its new acquisition. In 1972, the commonwealth hired a land manager, Robert Watts, to oversee the woods. Due to deed restrictions, division could not operate the woods in its typical fashion of selective logging and understory suppression. After eight years of control, the commonwealth relinquished the forest to its current caretaker, Eastern Kentucky University (EKU). Soon after taking the property, EKU developed its Division of Natural Areas and set to protecting the Lilley Cornett Woods for future generations.

Robert Watts stayed on as the property manager, retiring in 2019. He lived in a cabin on the property, led hikes, and, along with faculty, most notably biology professor Dr. William Martin at EKU, helped to develop Lilley Cornett Woods as an ecological research station for scholars and students. Each year researchers from around the country travel to Lilley Cornett. While here, they board in the bunkhouse, use the lab facilities, and, most important, investigate the forest. In addition to examining the impressive trees, researchers have used Lilley Cornett to study wide ranging ecological subjects, including amphibians and invertebrates, birds and mammals. They have also studied valuable medicinal plants, including black cohosh and ginseng. After the completion of over 50 biological studies, the woods that bear Cornett’s name have become a living laboratory, a place where forest ecology and human insight work in unison.

Even though Lilley Cornett Woods is over 130 miles away from Eastern Kentucky University’s main campus, the forest encompasses the best values of that institution. EKU’s mission statement names a stewardship of place as one of its guiding principles. This notion of responsibility is reflected in the university’s ongoing protection of and dedication to one of the commonwealth’s last ancient forests. Lilley Cornett Woods is certainly a place for students and researchers to study a mature forest’s ecology, but it is also a place for the citizens of the state and country to come and experience what much of the eastern United States must have looked, sounded, and even smelled like over 200 years ago. Lilley Cornett Woods is a place for trees to grow, age, and even die in their own time. The forest holds an irreplaceable value for researchers, a vestige of Kentucky’s pre-European past."

Scott Honeycutt holds a Ph.D. in American literature from Georgia State University. He is an associate professor of English at East Tennessee State University, where his primary research interests include 19th century nature writing, walking literature, poetry, and young adult literature.

Read his full write up here: https://www.appalachianplaces.org/.../lilley-cornett...